Offal Times, Ctd.

09 Dec 2008 07:16 pm

By Patrick Appel

A reader writes:

Though I'm sure it's makes for a more lurid tale of Great Depression woe, I would think that a more likely cause for the strong uptick (over the last *five years* no less) in offal consumption would be a revived interest in nose-to-tail consumption. Fergus Henderson and his ilk have brought attention back to classic British offal dishes, and have attempted to renew the enjoyment of the whole animal as environmental mindfulness and thrift.

So I'd say this is just a case where thoughtful consumption happens to dovetail nicely with economic realities, rather than a scary "my god, no one can afford steaks anymore" harbinger.

Another reader :

It's too bad that it takes tough economic times for people to recognize the value of offal. The cheapest cuts of meat often prove to be the juiciest, most tender part of the animal when prepared properly. Too often we throw away the undesirable parts because of social taboos or just plain ignorance. Our ancestors knew the importance of using the entire animal. As a child, I used to look in wonder at the head cheese at the supermarket. My mother would tell me how disgusting it was and for years, I believed this was true. Fast forward twenty years and I am a chef, and making head cheese has proved to be not only satisfying in it's preparation, but it's delicious. Not everyone is an adventurous eater, but I have found that if someone does not know what they are eating, they are more inclined to enjoy it. I have cooked kidneys and heart before, had friends try it, and they loved it. Upon hearing that what they ate was an organ, they were immediately repulsed and said that it was disgusting. Where does this aversion to variety meats come from? Are we too good for anything but tenderloin? Offal is not awful, it is quite "wondoffal."

As someone who once accidentally ordered trippa (tripe aka cow stomach) at a restraunt in Rome, I can testify that eating all parts of the animal isn't for everyone. This post from a few months ago by a food-blogger sums up pretty well how I feel about the dish:

This? Was disgusting. Absolutely, positively the worst thing I have ever eaten in my life.

And I was surprised and really bummed. In some part of my twisted little mind, I really did have high expectations for this dish. I kind of wanted it to be excellent, so that I could amaze, astonish, and horrify my friends by ordering tripe when we went out. I wanted to be The Girl Who Is Not Afraid To Order Tripe And In Fact It Makes Her Even Cooler And All The More Sexy Because She Enjoys It. Alas, it was not meant to be.

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